Lightening products in Cameroon have harsh skin

A big hat that protects her from the sun’s rays, Jeanne, 63, suffers from skin cancer: it is probably caused by the whitening products that she used for forty years, very popular in Cameroon, but banned for a month after a very popular controversy.

“I’m embarrassed when people look at me”, confides this shopkeeper from Yaounde, who does not want to reveal his identity. A facial injury that worsened over five months brought him to Elig Esono Medical Center. He was diagnosed with carcinoma, one of the most common skin cancers.

For Annette, a 20-year-old student, using several whitening cleansing milks fortunately only resulted in scarring, peeling, and burns. “My face was burning under the strong sun and I had to stop”She worries.

“white now”, “Super White”, “quick cleaner” : These products can be identified on the shelves by the women of color illustrated on the packaging. According to the Cameroon Society of Dermatologists (Socaderm), almost 30% of residents of the economic capital Douala and a quarter of young women in school in Yaounde used them in 2019.

Carcinogenic and mutagenic

Most have never been scientifically tested and contain dangerous levels of substances that inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment produced by sun exposure. In particular, hydroquinone, which has been banned in the European Union since 2001 due to its carcinogenic and mutagenic potential.

According to a 2019 study by the Yaoundé I Faculty of Medicine, hydroquinone was the most used ingredient in Cameroonian whitening products. “We see patients complaining of skin depigmentation symptoms every day”Confirms Dr. Allen Patrice Meledi Njong, dermatologist at Douala General Hospital, which causes “Public Health Problem”.

these products “Commonly used in many countries in Africa, Asia and the Caribbean”, “by both women and men”But “Also among the dark-skinned inhabitants of Europe and North America”In November 2019, the World Health Organization (WHO) was concerned, in particular “Mercury, a dangerous ingredient often found in creams and soaps designed to lighten the skin”.

In addition to epidermal pathologies, some intake of these substances can lead to diabetes, obesity, hypertension, or kidney or liver failure, warns Dr. Njong, also noting the psychological consequences: “Anxiety and depression. »

“Very old practice”

So why risk hurting yourself like that? Some women believe that they gain beauty and attractiveness by lightening their skin “Advertising and marketing reinforce this prejudice”According to WHO.

Sociologist Achille Pinghane Yonta of the University of Yaounde offers a more stark analysis: “there is a trend” Rooted “In our conscience we want to be like you” For the western population. “This is a very old practice. In some parts of our country, it is even said that the dowry of a light-skinned woman is higher than that of a dark-skinned woman. »

“I’ve noticed that men are more attracted to lighter skinned women and I had proof of that when I bleached my skin, I’ve never been in demand before”, assures Pascaline Mbida, unemployed, who stopped as soon as she realized the health risks. The cost also dampened his enthusiasm: he spent 30,000 CFA francs (€45) a month on these products, almost the legal minimum monthly wage in Cameroon of 36,270 CFA francs (€55).

On August 19, the Ministry of Health banned the import, manufacture and distribution of cosmetics and personal hygiene products containing hydroquinone, mercury or corticosteroids.

Seizures in the markets are increasing

The decree, issued after a confrontation with opposition MP Nuran Foçing, who runs a company that sells bleaching products. A very popular controversy, which, according to his party, was not devoid of political ulterior motives.

Since then, confiscations have proliferated in markets, much to the chagrin of sector players who indiscriminately condemn confiscation. “The number of products that we find in the slopes every day is enormous”Klaver Nken of the Ministry of Health assures.

According to national statistics, the cosmetics and personal care market in Cameroon is growing by 7% annually and will reach 380 billion CFA francs (approximately 580 million euros) in 2020. “The skin whitening products sector is one of the fastest growing cosmetic industries worldwide and is expected to be worth approximately $31.2 billion by 2024.”Already alarmed the WHO in November 2019. Since the ban, a black market has developed in Cameroon, especially online, and banned products are easy to obtain.