High Jewellery: It’s all gold and beauty here

Purists and high jewelry investors love nothing more than asking the question moments after handling a piece of jewelry with their eyes on a particular stone: “What character? » Recognizing that large stones must be arranged, the houses of Place Vendôme provide details with commas. But jewelers are also valued for their ability to work with gold. A less spectacular dimension of goldsmithing, but which requires no less finesse than that used in lapidary and which was particularly valuable, places Vendôme beyond the final presentation of the high jewelry collections, which took place in Paris from January 23 to 26. High fashion shows.

Choosing to be inspired by lace this season, Dior takes the refinement of the precious metal to its peak

Opting for lace inspiration this season, Victoire de Castellane takes precious metal refinement to its peak at Dior. 77 In many of the novelties it exhibits, the fabric is imitated by honey-colored, beaded, twisted, netted gold. This gives in the precious version (ruby from Mozambique, colored sapphires from Madagascar, brilliant cut diamonds…) the simulation of a fabric worthy of haute couture, through which we can guess the skin of the fingers or the neckline, openwork delicately.

The gold is refined by Buccellati, an Italian goldsmith acquired by the Richemont Group in 2019, with a very unique way of cutting it into tight cells like a tille. For its new vintage, where spessartites, rubellites, moonstones or zircons are thrown on cocktail rings, rounded or domed rings, the metal is found brushed, creating highlights or borders, or used “Rigato”That is, with embossed stripes designed to create the illusion of falling fabric.

Tape and topstitch

Chanel may not present a full collection, but the label is revealing five jewel watches. In imitation of a pin, these sewing cushions worn on the wrist, in which pins are inserted, voluminous models with domed dials serve the eternal “codes” of Chanel: tweed, quilt, pearls… An object where the needles are secondary, it is primarily a matter of showing the mastery of various skills, from Grand Feu enamel before applying the varnish. Gold engraving reproduces by hand, in miniature, scissors, ribbon, topstitching or purse chain.

Even De Beers, known for its diamonds, is strategically emphasizing the diversity of gold care when inaugurating a new collection dedicated to the four seasons. In the same jewel, gold (yellow, white or pink) can be mutated, from the starry thread of the blade, which represents the joy of spring, to the thin yellow twist of summer; From a closed environment to a circle of brown diamonds in autumn to clear snow spots in winter (a random row of diamonds, reproducing the impression of frost). “It was a challenge for us to dare to dive into the goldsmithing endeavorCeline Assimon, CEO of the company’s jewelry division, agrees. But we wanted to show that we are not just a diamond dealer. »