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When the fur takes on a face

Is the fur coming back? Since the beginning of winter, celebrities with millions of followers on Instagram have appeared in fur coats, real or fake: Kendall Jenner wrapped in a chocolate coat for a vacation in Aspen, Kim Kardashian with hair like a gray Yeti at the museum, Dua Lipa. Zebra in a toupee at a party… aesthetic mob wife (French for “mobster’s wife”), characterized by very distinctive fur as an outward sign of wealth, is common on the Internet: Google Search “Esthetic of Mob’s Wives” It grew by 2,500% in the month of January, during which the hashtag #mobwifeaesthetics on TikTok exceeded 50 million views in a week.

This renewed interest is surprising. Perceived as a symbol of cruelty to animals, real fur has become very unpopular in public opinion – 9 out of 10 French people oppose its trade, according to an IFOP poll in 2021 in partnership with the 30 million Friends Foundation. Institute of Fashion (IFM) which trains tomorrow’s stylists, Master Fashion Design Director Leila Neri observed for several years, “Deep rejection of students who no longer want to work on real fur”. “We asked ourselves the question of removing real fur from our offer due to negative comments accusing us of legitimizing the fur aesthetic.In turn, admits Camille Gabi, co-founder of Imparfaite, a second-hand fashion site.

Burned by the spectacular actions of animal rights associations, fashion brands have largely moved away from real fur: Chanel gave up in 2018, the Kering group (Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and McQueen) in 2021. Dolce & Gabbana in 2022. Even Moncler and Canada Goose, whose fur collars justified the price of their expensive parkas, have abandoned it. From the general public, the vintage fashion platform Vinted has also been banned.

Wear lettuce shreds and metallic fabric over organza at Fendi.

This disappointment had serious consequences for fur. Two institutions reigned for a long time in Paris: Sprung Frères and Yves Salomon. Sprung announced its retirement in January 2024. Family business leads to a “The absence of a candidate to take the torch in a not very positive context”. “The brand is very focused on fur, we don’t want to change the job”Company director Nathan Sprung summarizes.

Source: Le Monde



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