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Lifestyle Picks of the Week: Graphic silk squares, Italian-style plates, dark jewelry

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raised in squares

The minimal illusion square, Aenéis, is available in 68 × 68 cm, 90 × 90 cm or 140 × 140 cm format.  From 140 euros to 390 euros.

Raised in Ticino, Switzerland and now living in Paris, Lisa Lubrin regularly travels to Como, Italy. This is where, since 2018, this thirty-year-old man has been weaving, printing and sewing squares with graphic patterns in silk canvas under the Aenéis label. Discovering hand knitting as a teenager, this daughter of a teacher and school teacher studied fashion design in Milan and London. After an internship at Alexander McQueen or Liberty of London and experience at Hugo Boss or Napapijri, he turned his back on these big houses. “I was demotivated and disoriented. They only talked to me about catching trends, production scale, costs and margins. he says.

On a more modest scale, which suits him better, Aeneas draws inspiration from frescoes and botanical plates, the work of Brutalist or abstract architects such as Richard Meier, or Bauhaus figures such as the painter Josef Albers. “To be honest, I discovered Albers through his wife, the textile designer Ani Albers. I love his minimalist approach and unique use of basic, geometric shapes. Squares, rectangles, you see them every day without attention… He manages to use them in sophisticated compositions that capture your imagination. » Zincography series (lithography on zinc) graphic tectonic, which Albers initiated in 1941 thus fostered a square that played on austerity and optical illusion.

“First I drew, with a pencil, and then on the tablet, two white squares with full lines. I added a third, black, to separate them » In the background, the so-called “biscuit” A mix of cream, black and beige. “It took a lot of effort to get the colors to coexist, then find the right thickness of lines and borders to make the print transparent and rich. Both when unfolding the scarf and tying it up. » V. Pe.

Italy on his plate

A plate from the Tuscan brand Popolo,

Each great Italian pottery house tells us, with its own signature, know-how, style or regional roots. For example, Ginori 1735 The Florentine porcelain maker, nearly three hundred years old, graces tables at La Botte and elsewhere with its magnificent collections, especially the Oriente Italiano line, which combines oriental garden motifs and pastel tones. We can prefer, in the same house, a more modern spirit – even if the inspiration is directed towards Greco-Roman art – Il Viaggio di Nettuno, a selection of works imagined by the British designer Luke Edward Lobb.

A change of scenery with Tuscan brand Popolo, signed by A Tavola! In English, this time, mischievous messages such as (“I saw you cry at the disco” or “Better late than ugly”) are handmade by artist Gabriela Ferrazano (Musæ Studio) on the plates she designs. , was sold on the website of Ta-Daan, a Milanese collective that prides itself on re-mastering.

Online store in a more bourgeois mood cabana, The Italian lifestyle magazine founded by Martina Mondadori features ceramic plates handmade in Umbria and decorated with chaise lounge stripes in green, yellow, orange, pink or blue. In this register of diverse ceramics, Emporio Sirenuse publishes bowls and plates made by Amalfi artisans, while the speckled ceramics characteristic of Puglia are available on the Bottega Egnazia site. But Transalpine doesn’t have a monopoly on Italian-inspired dishes. Le Grassois Fragonard pays homage to the “Sicilian summer” with a collection of porcelain plates printed with evocative illustrations of Palermo or Catania, with prices as low as the Mediterranean breeze. S. May.

Beautiful dark

Left to right: Celestial rose necklace in yellow gold, diamonds, mother-of-pearl and onyx, Dior Joaillerie, €9,350;  Les Berlingots ring, yellow gold, onyx and diamonds, Cartier, €5,600;  Limited edition necklace No. 3, in black gold, diamonds, onyx and black titanium, Repossi, €6,950;  Perlée ring in yellow gold, onyx and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels, €8,300.

In the world of jewelry, in all the “sparkle”, “transparency” and “purity” onyx works out its difference. Because if there are some options – white, gray, green or orange, mainly in its deep and opaque black version, the houses of Place Vendôme use this precious stone of the chalcedony family. Onyx, which has been set in cameos since antiquity, was specified for making funerary jewelry, especially along the Channel, in the Victorian era. In the 1920s and 1930s, it moved to the market. In Paris, Cartier makes it a recurring element in his vocabulary: this stone is bordered by hard white gold clasps and brooches, or depicts panther spots. Today, the house on rue de la Paix continues to combine it with gold and diamonds, a recipe also followed at Van Cleef & Arpels. Dior, for his part, contrasts it with mother-of-pearl, while Repos, in a more radical spirit, contrasts it with other equally dark materials, such as black gold – by dipping it in a bath of ruthenium or titanium. V. Pe.

Alcove Secrets

Ceramic sculpture by Hannah Lim.

Since 2018, design specialists Valentina Ciuffi and Joseph Grima have shaken up the Milan furniture fair by exhibiting several dozen new designers, publishers and institutions in unusual places – a former hospital, a manufacturing plant – within the framework of the Alcova fair. panettone, butchery. … They are now continuing the event with an online store where lamps, tables, mirrors, vases… are offered from 70 to 11,000 euros. Collectables in small series, signed by confidential creators who challenge the notion of good taste. There we find amazing ceramic sculptures by Hannah Lim, Anglo-Chinese inspired boxes with a manga aesthetic, Elements, Adrian Cruz’s lamp in transparent multicolored resin straight from a Florida nightclub, or Holloway Li’s chair in fiberglass and orange fabric. Puffy with seventies lines. A bold photograph of modern creativity. Mr. God.

A bunch of bushes

Provence, spontaneously considered an ocean of roses, still hides the production of great red wines (about 10%), which have nothing to envy to the appellations of Bordeaux and Burgundy. At Château des Sarrins, in the town of Saint-Antonin-du-Var, vines thrive on calcareous soils in the midst of a species-rich bush. When we taste the Miss Rouge Secret 2018 vintage, made from five varieties of grapes, we encounter all the scents of its landscape: thyme, savory, rosemary, verbena, lavender, cypress… This Côte-de-Provence is an invitation to travel through its lands. . And when the Red Sea of ​​the Mediterranean is closer, as in Cassis, it is decorated with irresistible iodized and salty aromas. Coming from vineyards over 60 years old, the Marquis de Fesque vintage from Domaine du Bagnol is a shining example. LG

Chateau des Sarrins, Rouge Secret, Côtes-de-Provence, organic, 2018, €24. Domaine du Bagnol, Marquis de Fesques, Black Currant, Red, Organic, 2018, €28.

drum beat

Tambour watch, steel and rose gold, mechanical self-winding movement LFT023, Louis Vuitton, price on request.

After the beautiful book published by Thames & Hudson in 2022, the Tambour, Louis Vuitton’s flagship watch, begins its transformation. Gradually, 80% of the offerings in this range will disappear to attract more savvy collectors. In the new version, the model has a thinner crown (reduced from approximately 13 millimeters to 8.3 millimeters), an integrated metal bracelet, a new three-hand movement (automatic winding), luminescent hands and wording in a French vintage spirit. Dial: No longer says “Swiss Made” but “Fab. in Switzerland” as on some watches from the 1940s to 1960s. Seeking refinement as well as demonstrating industrial strength with price increases. The Tambour, in steel, yellow gold or rose gold, is also available, as here, in a two-tone version. V. Pe.

Insta moment

Source: Le Monde



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